Showing posts with label swing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label swing. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 21, 2015

New York, New York

After going to Dan and Sejal's wedding, Laure and I spent a week with some of our East Coast friends in the city that never sleeps. We danced, attended some cultural events, and--best of all--ate to our heart's content.

As soon as we arrived in New York, we met up with our good friend Andrew, who took us to the first of many great meals.
Ramen at Ippudo.
Since moving to Switzerland, Laure and I had been craving some good non-European food. So we were happy to check out one of the restaurants in this Japanese chain of good quality ramen.

After eating delicious ramen, we settled into our home base in Queens. Andrew's good friend Jamie was kind enough to let us stay at her apartment there while she was out of town. In my opinion, New York easily has the best public transportation system in the country, so it worked out really well to be walking distance to a subway station with an express train to Manhattan.
Rug and Mochi taking a nap at Jamie's.
The scary big pigeons of Queen.

One of the benefits of visiting New York is that I was able to work from the NY office during the weekdays before hanging out with our friends at night. This worked nicely because most of our friends also had to work during the day and I didn't need to take extra days off work. It also gave a small taste of what it would be to live there. Laure spent her days exploring the city and doing some shopping. Since almost everything is cheaper in the US, she took advantage of the opportunity to refresh her winter wardrobe, stocked up on edible favorites from Whole Foods and purchased a few replacement kitchen items.
Sunset view from the New York office isn't bad.

As I've previously mentioned, one of the ways we connect with the locals while traveling is through swing dancing. One of the two venues we checked out was Swing 46, which is a restaurant where the George Gee's Big Band plays every week. Those guys can really swing, and the crowd of local dancers love them.
Laure with one of the local dancers at Swing 46.
The band and the dancers interacted in a way I had never seen before -- the band leader George Gee constantly stirred up the crowd and the dancers cheered when players finished their solos. Dancers also cheered and learned from one another regardless of whether they were beginners or advanced. Needless to say, this was a completely different vibe from what we experience in Zurich.
Andrew did pretty well for his first time swing dancing.
It felt surreal to dance in the birth place of swing dancing while listening to a great live band playing some of the classic swing songs written about the city (e.g. "Take the 'A' Train").

One interesting thing I noticed at Swing 46 is that most local dancers were African American, which is something that I had never seen in any swing dance club. Historically, swing dancing was founded by the black community in New York before becoming a national (and international) phenomenon. As other music trends became popular, most people including most of the black community moved on. Today's wave of swing dancers is quite international, but primarily not black. So it was great to see that in the heart of where it all started, some African Americans were still swinging with style.

Later that week, Andrew took us to another Japanese restaurant -- this time a more upscale restaurant called the Bohemian. Each one of their courses, including the cocktails, was impeccable. Interestingly, the only way for someone to dine at the Bohemian is to be "referred" by someone else that has already been there. This is similar to how Facebook started: you could only join if an existing member invited you. This unusual strategy of exclusivity creates a buzz in a city where foodies are always on the hunt for the hottest new restaurant.
The Wagyu beef at the Bohemian is delightfully soft and juicy.

During the last few days, we met up with more of our great friends Andy, who had just moved there from San Francisco, and Guillermo, who took a train from DC. We checked out the Christmas market at Bryant Park.
My buddy Andy and I in front of Bryant Park's ice rink.
One valuable find at the market was a food stand that sold the delicious Eastern European treat named Trdlo, with which Guillermo fell in love when we visited Prague in the previous holidays.
Trdlo is a delicious cylinder of dough coated with a mix of sugar and walnuts.
It is slowly cooked over fire.

The market was fun although significantly less decorated than the extravagant Christmas markets in Europe. I think the New York version is a bit less lively partly because people can't legally drink their Glühwein (hot mulled wine) outside, so the American Christmas market is not as good of a place to just hang out and socialize. Maybe that will change one day.

On the topic of Christmas markets, we also checked out a small one by the local Swedish community. They hosted it as a fundraiser for the local church and explained Swedish holiday traditions and foods.
Swedish community Christmas market.

Another follow-up from our previous trip to Prague was checking out Hospoda Bohemian Beer Hall, which is the sister beer hall of Lokál Dlouhá in Prague. Although we didn't find the same beer master that we met on our previous trip, we still had a delicious round of the Czech beer Pilsner Urquell on tap. Apparently the New York beer hall didn't serve the beer out of the big tanks like they had it in Prague, which may explain why the texture wasn't as creamy. But the flavor was still pretty damn good.
A round of Czech pilsner at the Hospoda Bohemian Beer Hall.

On one of the nights, we checked out an "experimental theater" play. In such type of play, the audience and actors are not separated into seats and the stage. Instead, the audience is free to roam around different rooms of a building where they can watch different scenes of the play. Audience members sometimes interact with the actors and become part of a scene. We saw the play Sleep No More, which is easily the most popular of this genre in New York. It's a really interesting experience and feels a bit surreal at times.
Audience members wear masks to watch (and sometimes interact with) the actors in the different rooms of Sleep No More.
Photo credit: Unit 24.

We visited some more good friends for another memorable meal at their apartment. Our host prepared an awesome meal that included his mother's delicious spring rolls, which we enjoyed while reminiscing about old times.
Our good friends accommodated us into their busy schedules for a delicious dinner by Huy.

Following Andrew's suggestion, we also checked out the semi-finals of a Poetry Slam championship in at the Nuyorican Poets Cafe. The contestants wrote amazing poetry with topics ranging from personal life struggles (such as taking care of a brother with a learning disorder) to national issues (such as the police shooting of Trayvon Martin). Writing excellence was only one of the many requirements of the competition. The best competitors also delivered their poems passionately and beautifully.
Setting up the stage for the semi-final Poetry Slam championship at Nuyorican Poets Cafe.

Our last dinner in New York was at another restaurant that would be nearly impossible to match in Europe: an excellent Argentinian steakhouse named El Gauchito ("The Little Cowboy"). They serve the finest of Argentinian classics: thick and juicy steaks named bife de chorizo, which is commonly referred to as strip sirloin or NY strip in non-Argentinian restaurants. I had been salivating over the thought of this awesome steak since we had it in Argentina a few years ago. El Gauchito did not disappoint: the beef came cooked perfectly median-rare, although only Guillermo and Andy were smart enough to immediately remove it from the metal to stop it from cooking further. Noob mistake by the rest of us.

Accompanying the delectable bife de chorizo was another Argentinian classic: Malbec wine. Match made in heaven.
Guillermo, Andy and Laure with their bifes de chorizo and Malbec wine.
Don't forget me, Leslie, and Andrew.

After dinner, we checked out a nearby club with Latin music and delicious drinks, where we stumbled our way through some salsa and merengue moves. It was an amazing night apart from the moment of panic when we thought someone had stolen our coats.
This blurry photo reconstructs the ambience pretty well after a few drinks.

Friday, May 29, 2015

Lisbon and Penacova, Portugal

During the autumn, Laure and I visited Lisbon for some sightseeing and good food before meeting up with some of my family in Coimbra and Penacova. Here's a recap.
Outdoor dining in the old streets of Lisbon.

Laure found us a nice hostel named Travelers House in the old part of town. It was a stone throw's away from many of the historical places we checked out. The place had traditional hostel dorms a few private rooms. We booked a private room on the top floor with a bathroom and balcony.
View from our room at Travelers House.

In Lisbon we went on a self-guided tour through some of the main sights, thanks to the Rick Steves guide book. I had previously visited Lisbon with my family many years ago. Back then I was overwhelmed with all the history and the stress of traveling. This time around I was able to enjoy it more; partly because we toured at a leisurely pace and partly because I have grown to appreciate history.
Lisbon has charming street cars.
The street cars reminded us of San Francisco.
In Lisbon, we drank some ginjinha, which is a shot of fortified wine infused with cherries and combined with sugar. When you go to a shop that sells ginjinha, the owner asks "com ou sem?" ("with or without?"), which refers to whether you want cherries poured with the drink.
"A Ginjinha" is the most popular shop to buy the drink with the same name, ginjinha.
Ginjinha "com".

I was impressed by the beautiful white and black stone patterns on the pavement of sidewalks and parks in Lisbon. I naively assumed such patterns were unique to Brazil until I realized they were largely inspired by the ones in Portugal.
I was surprised to learn the famous pavement pattern from Copacabana in Rio was inspired by the one in Lisbon.
This dizzying pattern represents waves of the sea during the time that Portugal was a superpower in naval exploration and military.
The work of laying these articulate pavement patterns is painstakingly laborious.

Laure found an excellent restaurant named "O Ramiro", which served some of the best shellfish I have ever had. The restaurant was featured in one of Anthony Bourdain's shows, so you can imagine that it is a little trendy. But the deliciousness of the food is definitely worth the wait in line.

Here is how it works: on a busy night you start by waiting in line while sipping a drink; usually a light beer or white wine. Once you grab a table, you can take look at what fresh items they have to offer. You can ask the waiter about the different items, especially ones you have never seen before. The waiter will help you decide on a good combination of items, including how the food should be prepared, the quantity, and the order to be served.
The grilled jumbo shrimps with olive oil were amazing.
We also had these snail-looking sea creatures.
We made friends with a Brazilian couple seating next to us.
They offered us this delicious funny looking creature to eat.
The crab comes in two parts:
1. the legs, which we crack with a small plastic mallet and eat, and
2. the inside of the crab, which is made into a soup.
The carcass of our dinner.
Laure is still polishing off the crab - her absolute favorite plate.

My favorite part of our visit to Lisbon was actually the same as the highlight during my previous visit many years ago: a dinner with Fado.

Fado is a type of music historically performed by the working class in Portugal's modest restaurants and social gatherings. The origins are unclear, but one story is that Fado became popular during the time when women longingly sang about their husbands that left on long sailing journeys. Therefore the music traditionally conveys sad but beautiful sentiments.
A Fado performance at an outdoor restaurant in a square of the Alfama neighborhood.
Today, you can listen to Fado in different restaurants in the old neighborhoods of Lisbon. Some venues are relatively luxurious and host national Fado celebrities, but the majority of places are still small restaurants with local singers and an open mic for anyone that wishes to participate.

After some research, we chose a cozy and down-to-earth restaurant named "A Baiuca". The food was simple and tasty. The ambiance of a small room filled with emotional music is unbeatable. Anyone is invited to sing. An unexpected highlight was when the chef came out to sing.
Fado at A Baiuca.
The chef came out to sing a beautiful song in the middle of preparing dishes.
Community locals sang during the open mic at the end.

During the Fado, we sat next to an Italian couple with a baby. In the middle of dinner, the baby started crying, so the couple took turns at holding the baby outside the restaurant. When the restaurant owner noticed, she went out to hold the baby while the couple finished their meals and enjoyed the performance.
The three ladies giving the grand finale performance of the night.
I can't wait to come back.

Laure and I checked out a local swing dancing event organized by a school named Swing Station in Lisbon. I really enjoy connecting to the local community sharing similar hobbies when we travel. The swing dancing community seemed very vibrant. I think Laure enjoyed that guys are less shy about asking for dances in Portugal compared to in Switzerland.
It don't mean a thing...
... if it ain't got that swing.

We also visited a beautiful garden named Quinta da Regaleira, which is reachable by train from Lisbon. This garden is special for having a network of tunnels and ceremonial wells connecting different areas of the park.
Laure, Mochi and Rug descending one of the garden's ceremonial wells.
Looking up from the bottom of the well.
From the many grottoes, you can see the outside garden through naturally formed windows on the rocks.

When I had visited Portugal many years ago, my father had told us that he had made the initial connection with our extended family on that first trip; and from then on it would be up to us to individually visit them again in the future. And so we visited some extended family around Coimbra and in Penacova, which is the birthplace of my paternal grandfather.

In Coimbra, we met up with Mateus and Alda, who took us under their wings for the day. Our first stop was the Coimbra University, which is the oldest university in Portugal and is a strong school of higher education and research.
We met some musicians at Coimbra University.
Some of the painted tiles on the walls show the ships used for transporting raw goods in the area.

Our next stop was at a farm owned by some of our extended family. Even though Laure and I had never met them before, they treated us very courteously and warmly. They showed us their beautiful farm and asked us to stay overnight; an offer that we had to decline because of our lack of time.

José and Maria treated us very warmly. I would love to visit again.
We also met their son Joel, and his daughter Laura.
The farm had several animals including this cute pig.
Mateus roasting chestnuts.
We stayed for an afternoon snack of cold cuts and cheeses.

Next, we visited Penacova, which is my paternal grandfather's birthplace. It is a quiet little village with one small church, where many of the older generations of my paternal family were baptized and wedded.
The church in Penacova.
I think my grandfather was married here.

Mateus also explained that my grandfather was in the business of producing and transporting quicklime, which is a compound used for various purposes such as production of cement or plaster.
Mateus showed us where my grandfather had a furnace for the production of quicklime.

Our last stop was at a nearby village where other family members still live. One of them is my grandfather's cousin and goddaughter, Maria. When we met her, she was climbing up and down the stairs to take care of her sick goat, which she absolutely forbid to let die. In her 80's, Maria is a no-nonsense strong willed independent woman. In hindsight, she reminded me a lot of my father.
We met Maria at her home near Penacova.
Maria explained some family history with old photographs.

Visiting the humble region where my grandfather was born, I can't help but think about how much (almost crazy) courage and risk it must have taken him to pack his bags and sail 7,500 kilometers away to Brazil about half a century before the internet was invented. In a way, it makes sense because my grandfather was a businessman with a constant eye out for new opportunities. This was really the same reason that my father told us to pack our bags before moving to the States.

On our way out of the village after visiting my grandfather's cousin, we passed by a house with a familiar name.